Sunday, December 25, 2005

Monday, December 19, 2005

Thursday, December 15, 2005

Move Along, Nothing To See Here

I'm reminded of a scene from Fight Club when Edward Norton's character is sitting in his office after a particularly rough night of Fighting and is unable to hear because of the high pitched whistling in his ear which in turn was due to a perforated ear-drum. My personal experience was that of sitting on a conference call unable to concentrate on the fairly pointless drivel assaulting my afternoon due to the fact I was fighting a headache right above my left eyeball which in turn had been brought on by a particularly stressful week in the office. I'd pre-booked some holiday days for that Thursday, in the knowledge that if I didn't use it soon I'd lose it to the black hole of HCM's Artemis time-keeping monster. Before me was an expedia search result - Narita to Busan, Thursday, 11am returning Tuesday at 2.30pm. One click was all it would take. So what would it be? Snowboarding or Korea? The thought of actually being within reach of the desk sent me over the edge:

- CLICK -

Shit. I'd better try to get in touch with Stephen (a guy I've known since I was about eight years old, but haven't spoken to since moving away from Scotland). But no matter how hard I tried, Stephen was out of reach. I knew he was just back in Korea, and back to teaching. But he hadn't checked his email in a few days and as it transpires, didn't have a phone or home internet connection! If I couldn't get a hold of him I'd just make my way up to Seoul and do the tourist thing. Given how quickly I exhausted that avenue, I'm bloody glad I managed to get hold of him after arriving. So the plan was to meet up on Friday in Daegu and go out for some drinks. In the meantime I'd take a good nights sleep in the hostel I'd booked into, then spend the next day walking around Busan.

What I hadn't realised was just how cold it is in Korea. First off, I don't think it got above 1 degree celcius, and with the constant wind chill, it was easily -5 to -10 most of the time. Fortunately I'd overpacked and was able to wear three layers the whole time. Still, it was Brass Monkeys and my face was numb when walking about outside.

My first foray into the Korea tourist scene was done under the dubious direction of the "insight Guide" to Korea. Don't get me wrong, I'm very grateful to Steph for lending it to me, and when it came to Seoul it was spot on. But its clear that outside of Seoul the author had only done the most basic research. So let me fill in the gaps the author neglected to mention: "Russia Street" or "Texas Street" which is where the Russian Sailors drink, is a depressing back alley market street with bad karaoke bars and a worse prostitution problem. It was midday when I arrived there and already the ladies of the night, with bad peroxide blonde hairstyles and shopping bags under their eyes, were already offering their wares. The flimsy pretense of trying to sell ear-rings wasn't going to fool me. Only two types of lady have ever called me "Big Boy" when I'm fully clothed. One works in clubs with names like Pierre's or Hooters, the other works on street corners and two or three times an hour, on her back. I didn't stop to get a closer look at any of the shops.

Next stop in Busan was the famous Jagalchi fish market. To get there I had to walk about 5k or jump on the Subway. I decided to walk. That was my next mistake. Within minutes I was gagging on the smell of raw sewage sloshing just below street level. This was something I hadn't expected in Korea. I really thought it would be just like Japan in terms of cleanliness. So, trying not to breath through my mouth I found my way down through a surprisingly nice urban/office area lined with trees and into the Fish market. It was kind of disappointing, but I was there at the wrong time of day. None of the better food was left over and I didn't fancy haggling for the fresh fish to take to the sashimi bars. Fortunately, Jalgachi is right next to the shopping district, so I took a walk round there and admired the clothing. Its incredible how cheap clothes are in Korea - At least 20% less than Japan. Unfortunately they don't come in my size so I just stuck to window shopping.

I couldn't bear the walk back to Busan station so I took the subway. However, this turned out to be the lesser of two evils. I don't know if it was body odour or bad breath or bad toilet hygene, but the subway smelled almost as bad as the street. I later discovered (after going to McDonalds a few days later) that it was probably bad breath. Obviously it only takes one or two people that like to eat to much garlic and kimchi to cause a stink that permeates an entire subway carriage. So let me stress that NOT ALL KOREAN'S smell. ONLY the few that are unhygenic. The same would be true in the UK if the food wasn't so bland...

Busan is only an hour from Daegu so I took the local train and met Stephen at the Station. I dropped off my bags at his place and we went for Beers in Downtown. I can recommend the bar called Itaewon (named after the downtown area in Seoul) for its good atmosphere, great beer and friendly patrons. Even the GIs, who can get a wee bit carried away sometimes, were on good behaviour. Just don't ask me to give you directions. I found Daegu a and Downtown especially very confusing to navigate. This was largely due to the lack of landmarks and the grid layout. I'm sure once you've been there a while you get to know your way.

After getting pretty wrecked and meeting a few other teachers, we went for Real Korean Barbecue. If you ever go to Korea this should be your main choice for food (see the photos). The combination of Beef, Kimchi and rice is hard to beat (although I think the Japanese version is better... shh, don't tell them I said that). We got back to Stephen's around 5am with a plan to get up at 11 and take a trip to Palgong-san.

Day three in Korea started with a thumping. A dull thumping that made my skull feel like it was two sizes to small for my brain. I got up and had a shower. Unfortunately, I also used all the hot water! Poor Stephen had to have a cold shower later that day. We got dressed, went for some breakfast and took a cab to Palgong-san. When we got there the sky was clouding over and the temperature started to drop. After five minutes in a freezing cable car we got to the tourist station about two thirds of the way up. Unfortunately the visibility wasn't great and the wind picked up so we could only manage about ten minutes of attempting to take photos before fleeing to the restaurant. A warming cup of tea later we went back down to the bottom to catch a bus back to the city. Wow, we'd managed to waste two whole hours doing nothing, seeing nothing and being cold. We started calling it the Palgong-san fiasco. But to be honest, the tourism in general was a fiasco in Korea. Earlier that day we'd visited one tourist info booth:

Stephen: "Do you have any Bus time tables?"

Attendent: "Huh?"

S: "When is the bus to Palgong-san"

A: "I don't know" {slam's shutters down}

Apparently during the world cup Korea invested lots in the tourism industry but they just don't seem to try anymore. Maybe its because no-one wants to visit... I guess they heard about the miasma.

The evening was spent in Itaewon again. With a two hour stopover to a nice restaurant (I can't remember the name) to help another English teacher (I can't remember her name either) celebrate her birthday. The best part was when she set her hair on fire. Hoho, we had a giggle at that. What I can report though is that the crowd seems to be quite good. We chatted to various teachers the whole time and got to know their opinions and backgrounds. Like Japan they come from all over the place and seem to get on quite well. Further evidence that those who are willing to travel and experience new things, are willing to get along with other cultures and peoples. Admittedly, they were all westerners (except for one Korean and one Japanese - they didn't talk) but I'm sure the point is still valid.

It was good to catch up with Stephen, so on Sunday we went for Bimbimbap and reminisced about old times and old friends. So it was with a nostalgic mood that I got on the train to Seoul on Sunday evening.

One thing I really liked about Korea is the Bullet Train. Surprisingly, the first time I took the bullet train was in Korea, and not Japan. Well, it was fun anyway. We hit 295 kph which is the fastest I've traveled whilst still on the ground. I crossed Korea in under two hours and disembarked in the impressive Seoul main station. This is where Stephanie's guide material really came in handy. I looked up the hotels in Itaewon and jumped in a Taxi. I got a standard room no problem and for pretty good rates right in the middle of Itaewon. Normally I would have booked ahead but lack of internet access restricted that option. Besides, its not peak season so I knew there was a good chance of getting a decent bed.

I had one day of tourism left. Monday in Seoul was where I actually managed to get some sight-seeing done. There were three places on my hit list. First was Changdeokgung palace. Built almost 500 years ago by order of Emperor T'aejong, it is an impressive set of official and residential buildings. Its surrounding wall is to protect the residents from prying eyes, and also to protect the women from venturing into harm. However, it also prevented me from actually seeing the place. It was closed. Closed on Mondays apparently. My heart sank. I was expecting that everything would be closed. And having walked twenty minutes in the freezing cold I wasn't to happy about that. Fortunately the rest of my choices were still open.

The Korean folk museum was quite cool. A giant pagoda sitting at the northwest of Gyeongbokgung palace. It is surrounded by lots of examples of traditional folk architecture and sculpture. This is the first time I felt I saw any true culture in Korea - with the exception of the old rooftops in Daegu - as unfortunately most of the cities have flung up with depressing haste. Inside the museum were the usual dioramas depicting Neolithic peoples right up to modern Korea. Korea has an impressively varied and troubled history. For a land which is so strongly Buddhist it is a pity that imperialistic Japan crushed it so heavily during its many attempts to get to China. Also, the Korean war of the 50s really tore the country apart. I get the impression that most Koreans are grateful for the American intervention, but at the same time they want the Armed forces out of the country. That's probably not wise but there is definitely some mistrust there.

Gyeongbokgung palace is the other big palace in Seoul. Not as beautiful as Changdeokgung, as it was the main seat of power for only a generation and was actually burnt down by the Japanese in 1592. Only the foundations survived for 300 years before its restoration was ordered. Due to further Japanese imperial encroachment, the restoration work is still underway today. Check the photos out for more details, but the restoration looks very authentic. There were big crowds of people there, even though it was cold, and a pretty impressive "changing of the guards" ceremony was held with some pretty mean looking Korean guards.

After a surprisingly long day I went back to Itaewon to sample the nightlife. It seems quite varied - Rock bars (I really miss live rock music), clubs, pubs, theme pubs, restaurants etc. In fact I quite liked Itaewon. I ate a meal in the nearest Irish bar so I could drink some Guinness and went to bed early because I was convinced my return flight the next day was at 11am (and not 2.30 pm as it turned out).

I got up at 5 so that I could catch the 6am train to Busan. I got there shortly after 10 o'clock and jumped in a cab to the airport. It was only then that I discovered I'd arrived three hours early. Sigh. So I read my book ("The Picture of Dorian Gray") and bought some omiyage to take back to the office. Mmm, kimchi chocolate. My bad organisation also gave me some time to think about my trip. What disappoints me most about Korea isn't the fervent Nationalism, or the blindness to poverty, or the repression of women, but the fact that all these are done as part of an ideal which has lost much of its beauty and soul. Korea was heavily Confucianist. This means that life is ordered into relationships defined by a superior role and an inferior role. Whilst this means that women are degraded, it also means that elders are respected. The culture that was born from this and which was reflected in the Folk museum, aspired to some amazing architecture, awe-inspiring gardens, and a satisfying pastoral lifestyle. Unfortunately, much of the beauty has been stamped out by the Japanese, the Korean War and finally, South Korea itself. In its attempt to emulate the west, its taken the same route as China and previously Japan. All the stylism of past centuries has been forgotten in order to throw up depressing high rise apartment blocks and plastic looking offices, without any real aesthetic for architecture. Korea could be a beautiful progressive country. Instead, many areas are reminiscent of Brixton in London. I'm sure I missed out on the nice areas and that they do exist. Its just a pity that most of the new areas have none of the style of the west, and none of the soul of the east.

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Tell me why! I don't like (Mondays)

Yo... I've uploaded the Korean photos I can bear to expose to the public. Take a look. As always, they are on Flickr.

I don't think you can read this one unless you click on it. But it says "Closed on Mondays". Tourism eh? You pay X hundred bucks to visit the country and they can't be bothered to open...

Monday, December 12, 2005

Nose-plugs not included

Hi all. Just to keep everyone posted... I'm currently in Seoul and finally getting some decent touristy stuff done. I can't upload photos though and want to keep it short just now. I'll fill you all in with a full post when I get back.

I'll leave you with this tantalising glimpse into the past few days of debauchery. Korea stinks. It stinks of arse. It stinks of putrid kimchi. It stinks like someone just vomited a rotten curry into a used nappy. One thing I love about Japan is how clean the place is. Korea has opted for the open sewer technique. I can only say I'm glad I'm here in Winter instead of Summer.

More on this subject whence I return to planet Nippon.

Thursday, December 08, 2005

Korean Hotstep

Well, I'd booked some holiday time at work and found myself quickly approaching H-day without any real plan. Fortunately, the old school network kicked in and I found myself contemplating Korea to visit a friend from Scotland. Its one of those places I've had on my list to visit since I got to Japan, and given that I've already got three snow boarding trips planned for next year I decided to give it a go...

So here I am, sitting in the Aspira youth hostel in Pusan on the south coast. I'm not really sure what I'll be doing next, but I'm certrain I'll be doing it with gloves and a woolly hat. Its bloody cold over here. At least, compared to Tokyo its freezing right now. Plus I reckon they like it cold. My fingers are getting stiff sitting in the hotel lobby typing this entry!

In true Spiff stylings, I woke up this morning with a hangover and regretted the fact I had to catch a plane from Narita. I got to the train station and couldn't find the bloody entrance for the Narita express. I didn't bother with a map because we all know how useless I am at even remembering I have them with me! After six hours I was sitting on a bus in a strange country wondering where my stop was and feeling pretty silly for even contemplating the trip. Especially since I hadn't got in touch with my friend yet... I've now made contact and even have a phone number. Thank Feck for that! If that had fallen through I was looking at a six hour train journey to Seoul. I might still do that though. I'll have to see whats on the cards. My plan for tomorrow is to get a train to Daegu and see what the city has to offer.

Goddamn, my fingers are cold. I'm going for a whisky in the bar.

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Fuji-san


Fuji-san
Originally uploaded by sab-chan.
I uploaded a few snaps of the view from my office. Sunrise, midday, and sunset. Check it out on Flickr.

Thursday, December 01, 2005

Portrait of Kawagoe


Portrait
Originally uploaded by sab-chan.
I uploaded the photos from the Kawagoe trip to Flickr. Please enjoy them, it was a great day and the lighting was fantastic. Also, I got a few lucky snaps like the one in this post.

Also, I noticed that my hit counter is over one thousand! Glad to see people are enjoying the blog.